Forests

Climbing the Largest Spruce Tree in the Carmanah Valley

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I'm excited to share that we have located, climbed, and measured the largest spruce tree in the Carmanah Valley!

The record-sized tree — whose mammoth trunk forks into multiple stems reminiscent of the multi-headed hydra of Greek mythology — grows protected within the Carmanah-Walbran Provincial Park in Ditidaht territory on Vancouver Island.

The tree was identified by myself and Ian Thomas of Ancient Forest Alliance while exploring the Carmanah Valley in the spring of 2022 and climbed later in the fall with the help of professional arborists with Bartlett Tree Experts. The images are being released for the first time today to celebrate Earth Week.

The monumental spruce measures 12.9 ft (3.89 m) wide near its base, 233 ft (71 m) tall, and has an average crown spread of 72 ft (22 m). This makes it the largest tree in the Carmanah Valley overall (despite the famed Carmanah Giant being taller) and the fourth-largest spruce tree on record in BC, according to the BC Big Tree Registry.

This giant is the most spectacular Sitka spruce tree we’ve come across in our decades-long search for big trees in BC. As huge as they seem from the ground, we often only see a third of a giant tree, which can extend hundreds of more feet into the air. Climbing into the canopy of this ancient tree was like entering a lost world. Its limbs were adorned with moss & ferns, and its massive trunk kept dividing into what appeared to be a grove of trees amongst itself. Eventually, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the Carmanah Valley, more than 20 stories in the air!

This climbing project was part of my work as a National Geographic Explorer with support from the Trebek Initiative. We extend our greatest thanks to the team at Bartlett Tree Experts as well for donating their skills and expertise to make this climb possible.

All climbing and filming done with permission from local governments. Low-impact techniques ensured the tree was protected.

See the Ancient Forest Alliance press release for the full story, and be sure to send an instant message calling for the protection of old-growth forests in BC.

See the incredible video of the climb below!

Presenting at the Kennedy Center in DC on "The Search for the World’s Biggest Trees"

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I was thrilled to be invited to the Kennedy Center in Washington, DC, to share photos and speak on The Search for the World’s Biggest Trees! This was part of REACH to FOREST, a two-week event blending art, science, and culture in the nation’s capital. Long-time friend and forest ecologist Andy MacKinnon also presented as part of the Big Tree Hunters Party.

After that, we had a few days to tour the city! DC is an impressive and friendly place with 17 of the 20 National Smithsonian Museums. The Natural History Museum was unbelievable! Highly recommend visiting if you're in the area.

A big thanks to the festival organizers for bringing us out there and helping raise international awareness of the importance of old-growth forests in BC.

Hair Ice - This Rare Phenomenon Only Appears When Conditions Are Just Right!

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Hidden among the rainforests of BC you can find wonders of ephemeral beauty and minute delicacy, and few of these are stranger or lovelier than the phenomenon of hair ice.

Also known as “frost beard” or “ice wool”, hair ice appears only on dead deciduous wood when the temperatures are hovering just below zero degrees and when the air is humid. At first, it looks like a silvery moss or fungus, but a closer inspection shows instead a mass of fine icy filaments. These are incredibly slender, about .02 mm in diameter. Densely packed, they form a pearly cloud of ice. The slightest touch of a warm finger or even a breath will dissolve this fragile sculpture like cotton candy on the tongue.

But where does it come from? This magical winter phenomenon, like so much that is strange and mystical in forest ecology, is associated with a particular species of fungus: a jelly fungus called Exidiopsis effusa.

Under ideal weather conditions, a process called “ice segregation” occurs. This is when water freezes on the outside of dead wood, sandwiching a thin film of water between this ice and the wood pores. At this “ice front”, water is then drawn up through the wood pores towards the ice surface, where it freezes and adds to the existing ice. Lignin and tannin from the fungus are found in the ice and are thought to work as a sort of anti-freeze, inhibiting the delicate ice from recrystallizing into coarser structures and helping stabilize their unique shape for hours.

Because hair ice is associated with a specific fungus inside the wood, the same pieces may produce hair ice year after year. Around Vancouver Island, these are commonly the dead branches of alder trees. If you are lucky enough to find it, take careful note of the exact spot as you may be able to repeat the encounter, even several years later, when the conditions are once again just right!

Have you seen this rare phenomenon before?

Washington Post: "'Freak of Nature' Tree is the Find of a Lifetime for Forest Explorer"

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Amazing!! See major US news coverage in The Washington Post featuring the giant redcedar tree I located on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound, BC, Ahousaht territory. Hear thoughts and perspectives about the tree and conservation from Ahousaht Hereditary Representative Tyson Atleo as well.

The Ahousaht First Nation is at the forefront of old-growth protection in BC, with plans to protect the majority of their territory with several Provincial Conservancies which they are asking the province to legislate. This legal designation protects First Nations subsistence uses (hunting, fishing, foraging, cultural cedar use), co-management authority, and rights and title to the land. The Ahousaht land-use vision is also a great example of how conservation financing can support new legislated protected areas that protect old-growth forests while fostering sustainable, conservation-based economies that include businesses like the new Ahous Adventures.

The story was also featured in The Independent UK as well: Rare tree hunter in Canada finds ‘freak of nature’ 1,000-year-old cedar

Sea Wolves Howling on the West Coast of BC

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*Sound On* This encounter with wolves was one of the most magical moments of my life. We’d been walking down a remote beach off the west coast of Vancouver Island when up ahead we saw a pack playfully bounding through the intertidal zone and across the driftwood logs. Stopping a good distance away, we watched and waited our turn in awe of these beautiful creatures. One by one they left the beach, leaving one last wolf that started to howl. Soon the whole forest lit up with howls from all around, including from behind us where we hadn’t noticed any animals before.

It’s hard to put into words how powerful and primal an experience this was. Many in our group were brought to tears and I still get goosebumps listening to it again.

Eventually, the last wolf slipped back into the woods, and just like that they vanished, merging with the wilds which they call home.

Canada's Largest Spruce Tree, the San Joseph Spruce - Vancouver Island, BC.

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Canada’s largest spruce tree stretches towards the night sky as a full moon rises over northern Vancouver Island. Located near the San Josef River outside of Holberg in Quatsino territory, the San Joseph Spruce, aka ‘San Jo’s Smiley’, measures 255 ft (77.8 m) tall and 14.3 ft (4.36 m) in diameter. Standing at the base of the tree is akin to being a bug beside the foot of a giant elephant (Ian pictured here is 6’4 for scale). Pretty mind-blowing to say the least.

Please take a moment to reflect on the significance of our forest friends and send an instant message calling for their protection. Fine art prints available here.

[o] Canon 5D MKIV, 15mm fisheye, 30-second exposure, headlamp + moonlight, and a little bit of magic.

Canada's Most Impressive Tree - Flores Island, Clayoquot Sound, BC

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This is huge - literally! I’m thrilled to share images of what may very well be Canada’s most impressive tree. This gargantuan redcedar measures over 17 ft (5 m) wide near its base and 151 ft (46 m) tall. However, unlike most other trees, its trunk gets wider going upwards, culminating in a sprawling fortress-like crown of wooden spires akin to a massive wooden wall of an ancient castle.

This giant could possibly have the largest or near largest wood volume of any tree in Canada for about the first 50 feet of its trunk - the part you see and experience from the ground. This would make it, experientially, perhaps the most impressive tree in Canada, despite other cedars being taller or ranking higher overall.

It grows in a remote region of Flores Island in Ahousaht territory in Clayoquot Sound, BC, and has so far garnered the nickname ‘The Wall’, or ‘ʔiiḥaq ḥumiis’, meaning ‘big redcedar’ in the Nuu-chah-nulth language. The exact location has been asked to be kept private at this time.

I first located and photographed the tree while exploring with my friend, Nathaniel Glickman, as part of my project work as a National Geographic and Royal Canadian Geographical Society Explorer. Approaching it for the first time, I was almost in disbelief that it could be real. The scale of its looming trunk and sprawling canopy was absolutely mind-blowing. It's like a living fortress. In my nearly twenty years of searching for the biggest trees in BC, coming across this one has been the pinnacle of my career thus far.

In the spring of 2023, I returned with Tyson Atleo, Hereditary Representative of the Ahousaht Nation and the Natural Climate Solutions Program Director of Nature United, and members of the Maaqutusiis Hahoutlhee Stewardship Society (MHSS).

Thankfully, the incredible Land Use Vision from the Ahousaht Nation, currently in the late stages of negotiations with the BC government, calls for the protection of 80% of Ahousaht territory, including the ancient forest where this tree is found. This would happen through the creation of new Indigenous Protected and Conserved Areas (IPCAs) to be legislated as Provincial Conservancies by the province.

The BC government must fully fund and support Indigenous-led protection of old-growth across BC, including in the remaining monumental old-growth stands and those identified as most at risk by the province’s science panel, the Technical Advisory Panel. Speak up here.

I commend the Ahousaht Nation for continuing to be such incredible stewards of their lands, which harbour some of the most magnificent ancient forests, trees, and wildlife on Earth. Those interested in exploring their territory near Tofino should consider joining an eco-cultural tour with Ahous Adventures.

See the Ancient Forest Alliance media release, CBC interview and article, and CHEK News video interview.

Mossy Maple Grove in Springtime

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Springtime in the luscious Mossy Maple Grove west of Lake Cowichan in Hul’q’umi'num territory. This rare and spectacular grove is home to super shaggy old-growth bigleaf maple trees adorned with thick mats of hanging moss. Bigleaf maple trees have the unique ability to tap into nutrient-rich soil that develops over time in the canopy through aerial roots that sprout from their branches.

The forest is home to wildlife such as Roosevelt-elk, cougars, wolves, bears, deer, and more, while diverse plants carpet the forest floor. Due to its fantasy-like appearance, the grove has also been nicknamed ‘Fangorn Forest’ after the forest in The Lord of the Rings.

The Ancient Forest Alliance first drew attention to the need to protect this grove, which is found on private lands, in 2011. Most recently, the forest was deferred from logging for at least 25 years through logging company Mosaic’s BigCoast Forest Climate Initiative - a good step forward.

Now it’s up to the BC government to create a Provincial Land Acquisition Fund to help purchase and protect these scarce and valuable old-growth forests found on private lands in perpetuity.